In some ways, an absorption RV fridge is an amazing appliance, but sometimes they can be a bit finicky and not operate properly. If your RV refrigerator is not getting cold, there can be many causes. And running into this problem, no matter the cause, can be frustrating. In this article, we’re going to take a look at the most common problems and how you can fix them.
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RV Refrigerator Not Getting Cold Troubleshooting
Today, we’re taking a look at the most common RV fridge type, the absorption fridge. This type of fridge has an amazing feature that allows it to burn propane to create cold.
RV fridges have a much harder job than your fridge at home. They still need to perform, even when getting shaken around and tilted. Not to mention, they must withstand changing elevations and extreme temperature swings.

It would seem that a way to overcome these challenges would be to give the RV fridge more cooling capacity than your home refrigerator, but the opposite is true. An RV fridge’s absorption cycle operates slower and usually has just enough cooling capacity to run properly. This means that even if something is slightly not right, it can cause big problems in an RV fridge. Luckily, we can go through some general troubleshooting steps to figure out why your fridge isn’t getting cold.
Before we get into troubleshooting, you will need to know how to access the back of the fridge. RVs have vent and access panels on the exterior wall of the unit that allow access to the back of the fridge. Remove the panel and you will see inside the back of the fridge. The below diagram indicates the parts you will be concerned with. Every fridge is a bit different. While the parts should look similar, they may be in different locations.

The Fridge Works on Gas but Not Electric
In this case, there is something wrong with the electrical circuit, or the electrical heating element is bad. Use a multimeter to check the element itself to determine if the control board is providing power to the heating element. If it is, and the RV refrigerator is not getting cold, then the heating element needs to be replaced. If it is not providing power, you’ll first want to check the 120V power circuit to make sure there is power to the fridge. No power? Check the circuit and breaker.
On the other hand, if there is power, then the control board’s relay or fuse is probably not working. It is possible that the control board itself needs to be replaced, too. One thing you can do is take the cover off the control board and look to see if there are fuses that can be replaced.

The Fridge Works On Electric But Not Gas
If the fridge works on electric but not gas, then something is not working with the gas circuit. The first thing to check is if you have propane. If you are sure you have propane and the tanks are on, check the burner at the back of the fridge to see if you are getting any flame. No flame means you may need to restart the fridge to see if it kicks on. In the event the flame kicks on but then goes out, the flame sensor is probably bad.

If you hear the valve click on, and you can smell gas, but it does not light, then the igniter is bad or misaligned. RV fridges use electric igniters that will make a clicking sound and you should see a spark. If there is no clicking sound but gas is flowing, the control circuit board is probably not working. If you hear the ignitor but do not see any flame, the gas valve may not be working properly. Lastly, if you do not see anything or hear any clicking, then the control board may have failed.
The Fridge Portion Is Working But The RV Freezer Is Not Cold Enough
Your RV freezer should be below freezing but still in the 20s. While this may seem warm for a freezer, it’s a pretty common temperature range for an RV freezer. RV absorption style fridges do not get the freezer as cold as residential fridges, so your ice cream might be soft.
When your RV freezer won’t stay below freezing, this may indicate the beginning of a cooling or insulation problem. Try the following steps to figure out what might be going on.

Hot Weather RV Fridge Woes
If you notice your RV refrigerator is not getting cold enough, first take note of the outside temperature. RV fridges reject their heat outside and are highly susceptible to ambient temperature.
The RV Fridge Is Working But Not Getting Cold In Hot Weather
If the RV fridge is running full-time and still not cooling, a few things could be going on. First, make sure the fridge is properly ventilated by installing an RV fridge fan. These are important for ideal performance in hot weather as your fridge needs to be able to reject its heat.

Pro Tip: In hot weather, park your RV with the fridge side in the shade. Otherwise, the sun will add extra heat and make it perform worse.
If you are sure the ventilation is adequate, then the cooling unit may be going bad. Typically, cooling units will last 15 to 20 years. But even if it is working properly, there are other reasons the fridge may not be cooling.
Common RV Fridge Insulation Issues
Keep in mind, RV absorption fridges do not have the same cooling power that your fridge at home has. Meaning, if there is an issue with the insulation of the fridge, it may not be able to keep up with the heat loss.
Many RV fridges use what is called vacuum panes in their walls. These panes use vacuum-sealed foam to add a lot of insulation. Sometimes, over years of use, these can fail and significantly reduce the insulation values of the fridge.
Magnetic seals around the door are another common failure point. One quick way to check if the seal is bad is to put a piece of paper or dollar bill in the door. It should be hard to pull it out. If the piece of paper or dollar bill pulls out easily, the door seal is going bad. Do this test all the way around the fridge door to check for seal issues.

Fridge Is Running But Not Cooling Well, No Matter The Weather
First, you need to make sure your fridge is actually running properly. Check that the burner is clean and operating properly by removing the shield and looking at the flame. If it’s not running, it could be a thermostat issue where it thinks the fridge is cool but it’s not. Also, check to make sure the temp settings are low enough. If they are and the fridge won’t click on, the thermostat inside the fridge may need replacing.
If the burner is running continuously and the RV fridge is still not getting cold, check the quality of the burner flame. It should be a continuous blue flame with minimal flickering or orange. If the flame looks wrong, try taking the burner apart and cleaning it. Debris sometimes gets in the burner and causes poor operation.

Also, make sure the fridge is properly ventilated as mentioned in the hot weather section by adding fridge fans.
Sometimes, It’s Just Time For A New Fridge
Over the years, our RV fridge started exhibiting the symptoms of poor cooling – first in hot weather, then in all temperatures. We finally replaced it with a modern DC compressor unit. When we removed the fridge, we could see that multiple vacuum panels had ruptured (they will bulge) and were not insulating the fridge properly. In our case, the fridge was 20 years old and at the end of its life, so it was time for a replacement.
When considering a replacement, I highly suggest going with a DC compressor model unit. If you are plugged in most of the time or have a medium-sized solar system with lithium batteries, these fridges tend to cool much better and are much more efficient on electricity than the absorption style.
No appliance lasts forever, and RV fridges will eventually cause problems. Knowing these troubleshooting steps can help you get to the bottom of a problem quickly, so you can keep your food cold.
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I never thought of parking the fridge in the shade. 🙂
This little trick is a BIG help!
I don’t know how common this will be, however we just in October purchased our first rig, a Forest River Vibe. It seems all of the Vibes feature Electric only (Household?) refrigerators.
We do plan to do some solar, (and hope to win some BB Batteries!!). Yet, it seems in all our learning I’m a bit disappointed that ours isn’t both electric and LP.
What are your thoughts on Electric ONLY fridges in RVs?
(Did I miss that part in the blog post? I’m going back now to reread, but would LOVE your input!!!)
Our thoughts on electric-only RV fridges are pretty extensive, so we wrote another article about the different types of RV fridges and their pros and cons. You can find it here: https://mortonsonthemove.com/how-does-rv-refrigerator-work/ Hope you’re enjoying your Vibe! 🙂
Would like to know what inverter and charger goes best with these BBLi ion batteries in your promotion.
We usually recommend Victron products as they are fully programmable but any programmable 12V inverter charger should work (Magnum, AIMS etc…)
I’d like to suggest that you can buy a small battery powered fan. By placing it on the top shelf-pointed directly at the fins, it can keep your fridge 2 or 3 degrees cooler than before….without buying a huge triple fan thing that takes up room and has to be hard wired.
Hi Tom,
I had my Norcold absorption refrigerator changed at JC refrigeration to a 24 volt compressor. I have a 24 volt lithium battery and 930 watts of solar. There’s no problem cooling the refrigerator, but it’s hard to get to freezer to 10 degrees F. If I lower the thermostat to 34, I end up with frozen milk. I’m using an InkBird controller. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Steve
When did you do the conversion? I think some of their earlier models favored the Fridge over the freezer for cooling. Adding a fanset to the fins (if you dont have one) will enable more cold to be drawn from the fridge fins and more evenly distributed, allowing the compressor to run longer and hence cool the freezer more too. Since its all one system the compressor needs to run longer to get the freezer colder.
Thanks for the reply. I had the conversion done 8/2021. I have the fanset on the fins. Do you think changing the “delta” on the InkBird would help? I’m currently using 3 degrees F.
Thanks,
Steve